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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. Yet, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the family totally astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary honour.